An interesting, if controversial vermouth tasting on Cocktailnerd's blog here. Controversial because of Martini & Rossi's poor showing. I maintain that he got hold of a bad bottle. All of the vermouths in this tasting were fresh with the exception of the Punt e Mes, which was probably at least a year old (but has been stored in the refrigerator).
The contenders:
1. Martini & Rossi
2. Noilly Prat
3. Cinzano
4. Carpano Antica Formula
5. Carpano Punt e Mes
Tasting Notes:
1. Martini & Rossi
Matt's Notes
Sweet with some complex spices and nice bitterness. A nice balance.
Rating - 90
Rob's Notes
Thyme and dark fruits on the nose. Cola and cherry on the palate. Short finish
Rating - 85
2. Noilly Prat
Matt's Notes
Sweet plum fruit. Cloying sweetness - too flowery and lacking in depth.
Rating - 86
Rob's Notes
Ralph (barf) on the nose. Clean on the palate with a slightly bitter finish.
Rating - 81
3. Cinzano
Matt's Notes
Aromas and flavors of pizza sauce. Cloyingly sweet and spicy.
Rating - 84
Rob's Notes
Grassy and herbaceous on the nose. Funky mid-palate.
Rating - 83
4. Carpano Antica Formula
Matt's Notes
Heavy licorice elements on the nose. Some mulling spices (clove) on the nose and palate. Very complex on the palate with a nice balance and clean finish
Rating - 93
Rob's Notes
Underberg (Swiss bitters brand) aromas with clove and allspice on the nose. Nutmeg and cinnamon on the palate. Cloves on the finish.
Rating - 90
5. Carpano Punt e Mes
Matt's Notes
Murky with scents of molasses on the nose. Nice sweetness and bitterness on the finish.
Rating - 90
Rob's Notes
Soy on the nose. Darker on the palate with a sweet tang.
Rating - 85
Overall Ratings:
*** First Place ***
Carpano Antica Formula (93/90)
Unanimously voted the best of the bunch. Great complexity. Not too sweet with lots of spice, great balance and a clean finish. The only one of the bunch we would consider sipping on its own.
** Second Place (tie)**
** Second Place (tie)**
Carpano Punt e Mes (90/85)
Martini & Rossi (90/85)
Both Rob and I had these tied for second place. The Martini & Rossi was the clear leader of the "standard" sweet vermouths for use, while the Punt e Mes offered a slightly richer and more bitter character.
* The Rest *
* The Rest *
Matt
#3 Noilly Prat (86)
#4 Cinzano (84)
Rob
Rob
#3 Cinzano (83)
#4 Noilly Prat (81)
Final Notes - I had a slightly higher slant toward my scoring of these vermouths. This was both of our first times trying Carpano Antica Formula which was an excellent vermouth. This tasting confirmed Martini & Rossi as our favorite "standard" red vermouth (which I was concerned about after reading Cocktailnerd's review). Carpano Punt e Mes offers a richer, more bitter character for those inclinded toward such a thing. Noilly Prat and Cinzano were average performers and based on my infrequent use of sweet vermouth, are unlikely future purchases.
Final Final Note - I'd like to leave you with the quote from the bottle neck tag on the Carpano Antica Formula: ...Its special taste will conquer you for its refinement and rare bitter-sweet persistence. Consider me conquered.
Great post! Among my faves. Have been following your advice for a long time about going Italian for sweet vermouth and French for dry vermouth - so I am happy that the Martini & Rossi is still the best bet for an easy to find, inexpensive standard. I am very excited to try both of the Carpano vermouths to see if I can taste the differences. Also, to try your recommendations for excellent Manhattan making.
ReplyDeleteBoth of the Carpano vermouths are distinctive and really stand out among the rest of the group. They are quite a bit more expensive ($20 for the Punt e Mes and $30 for the Antica Formula) but worth seeking out. The Punt e Mes is available at Bevmo. I got the Antica Formula at Hi Time.
ReplyDeleteSo do I have to refrigerate vermouth? What's the shelf life with and without refrigeration?
ReplyDeleteI always refrigerate my vermouth. I try to use it within a year or less.
ReplyDeleteSome references with storage discussion:
http://marriedwithdinner.com/2007/12/06/a-sweet-italian-sip/
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/366223
http://epicurious.blogs.com/bonappetit__editor/2007/10/life-behind-b-2.html
http://thespiritworld.net/2007/06/04/vermouth/
i,ve had a bottle of cinzano bianco in a dark cupboard for about 10 years is it still ok.
ReplyDeleteHey Guys, I am kind of shocked that you did not include Dolin Sweet Vermouth in this tasting as it is a fantastic brand, in my opinion, and relatively easy to find.
ReplyDelete